Soil

Not only does soil determine how well the vine prospers, it also influences the taste of the grape and consequently that of the wine. From the depths of the subsoil the vine absorbs an abundance of minerals and trace elements and the longer it takes the grapes to ripen, the higher the content of these taste-forming elements in the wine.

The German Wine-Growing Regions

German wines grow in the area between Lake Constance (Bodensec), along the Rhine and its tributaries, up to the Mittelrhein near Bonn, and from the border with France in the west to the Elbe river in the east. Climatic and geological factors within this area vary greatly.

The entire German wine producing area is divided into thirteen specified wine-growing regions, each of which produces a wine that is typical of that region (similar in taste) and different from wines grown elsewhere. The vineyards of each region can be divided into Bereiche (districts); depending on the size of the regions, you will find up to seven Bereiche. A Bereich includes many wine-growing villages and usually takes its name from the best-known village of its area (examples: Bereich Bernkastel, Bereich Johannisberg, Bereich Nierstein). Each Bereich is made up of Grosslagen (collections of vineyards) and of Eenzellagen (single vineyards). The more specific (smaller) the appellation of origin, the more individual the character and taste of the wine, because the soil structure and micro-climate of a collective or an individual vineyard site is quite distinct from that of neighbouring sites.

What follows is a brief guide to each of the thirteen specified wine-growing regions. They are listed in geographical order, from north to south.

Wines produced in the more northern regions are generally light, fruity, fragrant and elegant, with fresh acidity.

The regions further south produce wines with more body, fuller fruitiness and sometimes a powerful flavour. The acidity is mild and agreeable.

Ahr

The Red wine-region Ahr is one of the smallest of Germany's wine-growing regions, with vineyards extending along the steep hillsides that line the Ahr River as it flows into the Rhine south of Bonn. Most of the vineyards grow red grapes — Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) and Portugieser — producing red wines of light charm and racy fruitiness. Lively, fresh Riesling and Müller-Thurgau are the white wines grown here. Nearly all of the region's wine is consumed locally.

Wine: velvety to fiery Spätburgunder; light, pleasant Portugieser; racy, fresh white wines.

Mittelrhein

Beginning just below Bonn and extending about 60 miles south on both banks of the Rhine, the Mittelrhein is a beautiful region of steep, terraced vineyards crowned with medieval castles and ruins. Bacharach has been the most important wine village of this region since the Middle Ages. The clayish slate soil yields lively wines with a pronounced acidity. Riesling, Müller-Thurgau and Kerner grow best on these inhospitable slopes. Most of the production is consumed locally or sold to visitors.

Wine: fresh, fragrant, pithy, marked fruity acidity (sometimes austere.)

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

From just south of the ancient Roman city of Trier, north to Koblenz, where it empties into the Rhine, the Mosel River snakes its way past dramatically steep, slaty slopes covered with some of Germany's most famous vineyards. The wines of the Mosel and its tributaries, the Saar and the Ruwer, are richly fragrant, pale in colour, light bodied with a lively, fruity acidity. The slaty soil imparts a distinctive taste to Mosel wines, ranging from fine-fruity to earthy, or .flinty". Often they have a hint of effervescence.

Riesling wines of great elegance and breed grow best on the steep, southern-facing slopes, particularly around Wiltingen and Scharzhofberg in the Saar-Ruwer district and in the Middle Mosel district around Bernkastel, Piesport, Wehlen, Brauneberg, Graach, Zeltingen and Erden. Müller-Thurgau and an old variety cultivated by the Romans, the Elbling, are also planted in this region.

Wine: richly fragrant, racy, piquant, elegantly fruity, delicate.

Rheingau

Wine: refined fragrance, lively racy acidity, great character and elegance.

Nahe

The Nahe region is set west of Rheinhessen, which it borders, and east of the Mosel. Bad Kreuznach is the region's most important town. The Nahe's vineyards thrive in a variety of soils along the steep slopes of the Nahe River and its tributaries. The more northerly district with its loam and sandy soil produces wines that resemble neighbouring Rheinhessen, while the slaty soil further south yields wines which suggest the fine flowery bouquet of Mosel wines and the elegance of Rheingau wines. Müller-Thurgau, Riesling and Silvaner are the predominant varieties planted in the Nahe region.

Wine: fragrant, subtly racy, fruity, full of flavour.

Pfalz

Bordered by Rheinhessen on the north and France on the south and west, the Pfalz's vineyards sweep across this pretty, peaceful land for nearly 50 uninterrupted miles and produce more wine than any other region in Germany. The northern half of this region is home to some of the best vineyard sites. The villages of Wachenheim, Forst, Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg are well-known for Riesling wines which combine substance and finesse. Pleasant, mild wines rich in bouquet and full of body from Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Silvaner and Morio-Muskat grapes are also grown in the clay and marl soils of this district. Chalk, clay and 1oess soils yield mild, fresh, often intense wines in the southern half of the Pfalz. In addition to its white wine, the Pfalz is also known for smooth, fruity red wine made primarily from the Portugieser grape.

The word Pfalz which names the region is a derivation of Palast, or palace, and comes from the Latin word .palatium". The English equivalent, Palatinate, is often used when speaking about the Pfalz.

Wine: aromatic, mild, round and full-bodied, expressive.

Rheinhessen

Rheinhessen lies in a valley of rolling hills, bordered on the west by the Nahe River and on the north and east by the Rhine. This 20 by 30 mile area between the wine-growing communities of Worms, Alzey, Mainz and Bingen is the largest of the German wine-growing regions and its production is second only to that of the Pfalz.

Due to the varying soil types and micro climates, many grape varieties are planted, including the three traditional white varieties — Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner, Riesling — as well as new crossings. The Portugieser grape is the most important red variety, and the area around Ingelheim is known for its noble full bodied Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) wine.

The Rheinfront or Rheinterrasse are names given to the vineyards on gentle slopes directly facing the Rhein near the town of Nierstein. Here some of the finest wines in Germany are produced, especially from the Riesling grape.

There were already admirers of Rheinhessen's mild, agreeable, fragrant wines during the Carolingian period. Charlemagne, who had a fortress at Ingelheim, was one of the earliest promoters of these wines.

Liebfraumilch and its Origins Rheinhessen is the birthplace of Liebfraumilch, the soft, mellow white wine originally made from grapes grown in vineyards, surrounding the church named ,,Liebfrauenkirche" in Worms. Today this popular wine may come from one of four regions: Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Rheingau or the Nahe.

Wine: delicately fragrant, mild, soft, medium-bodied.

Franken

Before the reunification in Germany, Franken was the easternmost of Germany's wine-growing regions, with most of its vineyards planted on hilly slopes of the Main River and its tributaries. Wurzburg is the principal city of Franken and home of the famed vineyard, Stein, which gave rise to the generic term .Steinwein", formerly used to denote all Franken wines. Traditionally, most Franken wines are bottled in a squat, green flagon called a Bocksbeutel.

Franken wine is the most masculine of Germany's wines, often drier and earthier than wines from other regions. Müller-Thurgau and Silvaner are the main varieties planted, as well as new crossings.

Wine: vigorous, earthy, robust, dry, often full-bodied.

Hessische Bergstrasse

The wine-growing region Hessische Bergstrasse is located north of Heidelberg, bordered by the Rhine on the west and the Odenwald (forest) on the east. The wines tend to be fragrant and rich, with more body and a little less acidity and finesse than those of the Rheingau. The Riesling is the main grape variety, followed by the fragrant Müller-Thurgau and delicate Silvaner.

The wines from the Bergstrasse are scarce and almost without exception consumed locally — a good reason to attend one of the local wine festivals in the medieval town of Heppenheim (late June) or Bensheim (early September).

Wine: fragrant, refreshing fruity acidity, hearty.

Württemberg

Württemberg's vineyards line the slopes of the Neckar River and its tributaries. Stuttgart is its major city. With nearly half of its vineyards planted in red varieties, it is the largest red wine region in Germany. Trollinger, Müllerrebe (Pinot meunier), Spätburgunder (Pinot noir), Portugieser and Lemberger make very fruity red wines. Württemberg's white wines — Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner and Silvaner — have a vigorous, hearty taste.

Württemberg wines can rarely be found outside this region, as the majority are consumed by the indigenous population.

Wine: strikingly fruity, hearty, powerful, distinctive earthy finish.

Baden

Baden is the southernmost of Germany's wine regions, a long, slim strip that extends from near Heidelberg in the north to Lake Constance (Bodensee) in the south. This is the famed ,,Black Forest" area. Germany's third largest wine region, Baden, is also its most diverse.

It contains soils that range from gravel, limestone and clay to Ioess, volcanic stone and shell-lime. Its grapes are also varied, and include the flowery Müller-Thurgau; full bodied Ruländer (Pinot gris); light, mild Gutedel; spicy Gewurztraminer; and the noble Riesling. About 23 % of the vineyards are planted in Spätburgunder (Pinot noir), a red variety, which is full-bodied and fiery when grown in the volcanic soils of the Kaiserstuhl. Spätburgunder Weissherbst, a rose wine, is a popular wine made here.

Whereas Germany's per capita consumption of wine is 32 bottles per year, each citizen of Baden averages 53 bottles — a tribute to their wine makers.

Wine: fresh, fragrant, spicy, aromatic white wines; velvety to fiery reds; full bodied.

Saale/Unstrut

The small wine-growing region Saale-Unstrut is the northernmost of Germany's wine-growing regions, with a long tradition of grape-growing and wine making. The first American rootstocks in Germany were planted in the region in 1887 after the Phylloxera disease affected vineyards there.

Vines are planted at the beginning of the romantic Saale River valley and on the hills near the town of Freyburg.

In the warm valley of the rivers Saale and Unstrut Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Wei_burgunder (Pinot Blanc) grapes are grown and made into a soft, dry white wine. Due to climatic conditions Spätlese and Auslese wines are very rare, but QbA and Kabinett wines are excellent when they are young.

Wine: soft and dry white wines, few Spätlese and Auslese wines, medium bodied.

Sachsen

Sachsen is the easternmost of Germany's wine-growing regions, with most of its vineyards located on the hilly slopes of the Elbe River.

The region stretches for about 30 miles from Pillnitz in the south to Dresden, Radebeul and Meissen.

The cultural and historical centers of Dresden and Meissen attract many visitors each year. Most of the wines from the region are consumed locally.

Wines made from Müller-Thurgau (Rivaner), Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Traminet grapes are dry, full of character with a fruity acidity. Some soft red wines and some ,,Elbtal-Sekt" (sparkling wine) are specialities of the region.

Wine: dry, refreshing fruity acidity, special regional character.

Guide to German Wines — Part III