Origins of German Wines

Nobody knows when and where wine first appeared, but certainly wild vines existed long before man — as long as 130 million years ago — and modern scientific tests have shown that wine was produced by man 8,000 years ago, although these early wines could have borne little resemblance to our modern vintages.

The history of German wines began with the ancient Romans who conquered the region about 100 B.C. and started cultivating grapes soon thereafter. In the Middle Ages the monastic orders established many of Germany's finest vineyards and, with their meticulous care of the vines and wines, set the standard for the high quality of German viticulture. The Church's vineyards were divided up and sold to private owners and the states when Napoleon conquered the Rhine region in 1803 — yet the vineyards thrived and the fame of their wines continued. Since then there has been constant progress and development.

The most northerly of the wine-growing countries, Germany produces the loveliest, lightest, most delicate white wines in the world. Low in alcohol and exquisitely balanced, they are wines of charm and subtle nuances. Other wine countries have planted the same grapes — most notably, the Riesling — and tried to make the same wines, but they have been, at best, imitations. Other factors which contribute to the unique character of German wines, such as soil structure and climate, simply cannot be relocated.

The wines grown in Germany are extremely diverse, although they bear a family resemblance. Tasting is the best way to appreciate the special character of German wines, as well as to understand the subtle differences which distinguish a Rhine wine from a Mosel wine, or a Riesling from a Silvaner, or a simple table wine from a late-harvested wine. This booklet will provide some useful information about the factors which influence the character/taste of German wines: grape variety, climate, soil, practice of harvesting grapes at various degrees of ripeness.

Grapes Grown in Germany

Germany has nearly 100,000 hectares (240,000 acres) of vineyards. About 87 % of this area is planted in white grape varieties; only 13 % in red grape varieties. By contrast, the worldwide ratio of white to red wine cultivation is almost exactly the opposite.

Grape Variety and the Label

If at least 85 % of a wine is made from one kind of grape, the name of the variety may be indicated on the label. This tells you what to expect with regard to the color, taste, aroma and acidity of the wine.

White Grape Varieties

Müller-Thurgau

is now the most widely planted grape in Germany (24 % of total vineyard area). It is a crossing of two varieties, probably Riesling and Silvaner, developed in 1882 in Geisenheim, Germany, by Prof. H. Müller from Thurgau, Switzerland. The grapes ripen early, usually in September.

Wine: flowery bouquet; milder acidity than Riesling; slight muscat flavor; best consumed while fresh and young.

Riesling

is the finest and best known of Germany's white varieties (21%). Its small grapes ripen late — in October or November. This long, slow ripening period allows it to develop more aroma and a harmonious balance.

Wine: fragrant, fine-fruit bouquet; lively, pronounced acidity; piquant taste; potential for aging because of racy acidity.

Silvaner

is a traditional variety (8 %). Its medium-sized, juicy grapes ripen somewhat earlier than Riesling. Wine: neutral bouquet; mild acidity; full-bodied, pleasant wines; best enjoyed while young.

Kerner

is a popular new crossing (7 %), developed from Trollinger {a red variety) and Riesling (a white variety). It has thick-skinned, early-ripening grapes.

Wine: light muscat bouquet; racy, lively acidity; similar to Riesling.

Scheurebe

(4 %) is another new crossing of Silvaner and Riesling.

Wine: lively acidity; bouquet and taste reminiscent of black currants.

Ruländer

(Pinot gris) is among the best varieties in Germany (3 %). It ripens at the same time as Silvaner.

Wine: robust, full-bodied, smooth, soft, and full on the palate.

Other white varieties:

Variety is the spice of life! There are other white wine varieties in Germany that are just as interesting and which you should try: the fruity, flowery Bacchus, the light, mild Gutedel, the racy, neutral Elbling, or the Morio-Muskat, with its flowery bouquet and pronounced flavor.

Red Grape Varieties

German red wines are refreshing, often light, and show more of a fruity than tannic acidity. They are a specialty, usually consumed where they are grown — little is exported.

Spätburgunder

(Pinot noir) is the Riesling's red counterpart (5 % of total vineyard area), producing elegant, distinctive wines. Its small grapes ripen late. It originally came from the French province of Burgundy.

Wine: velvety, full-bodied, with hints of almonds.

Portugieser

originally came from the Danube Valley in Austria (not Portugal). It ripens early (3 %).

Wine: flavorful, light, mild; very pleasant, easygoing wines.

Trollinger

grows almost exclusively in Württemberg (2 % ) and probably originated in Tyrol. It ripens very late.

Wine: fragrant, fresh, fruity, good acidity, hearty.

Climate

Germany's wine regions are concentrated in the south-western part of the country, which is parallel in latitude (50 degrees) to Labrador. Her vineyards are located on steep south-facing slopes, in a few valleys and almost always close to a river which tempers the climate, acting as a heat reflector, helping to maintain a constant temperature day and night. In autumn the mist and fog that rises from the river offers the grapes protection from early frost.

In addition to the general climate, it is important to consider the micro-climates of individual vineyards. The direction and inclination of a particular slope, the intensity of sunshine reflected from mirroring rivers, a protective ridge of hills or a forested mountain summit, which deflects the wind — all help the wine achieve its ultimate taste and quality.

Guide to German Wines . . . continued